In California, Sauvignon Blanc often suffers an identity problem when it’s called Fumé Blanc. Let’s start by clearing up any confusion about the varietal – Sauvignon Blanc and Fumé Blanc are both made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The difference comes from the style of winemaking and began in the 1970’s when famed vintner, Robert Mondavi, coined the term to describe his unique style of dry Sauvignon Blanc.
When Mondavi started using the term Fumé Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc was a fairly unfashionable grape in California. Most of the California Sauvignon Blanc’s on the market were overly sweet and lacked any of the texture or nuance that the Sauvignon Blanc’s from Bordeaux or the Loire Valley exhibited. Inspired by the wines of France, Mondavi came up with the term Fumé Blanc to differentiate his wine and impart some of the glamour of the famous Pouilly- Fumé grape.
Today there is some confusion about the difference between the two wines – mostly because these days there is not much of a difference. After the failure of California-style Sauvignon Blanc in the 1970’s, winemakers moved to a drier style wine, bringing much closer the style of Mondavi’s Fumé Blanc with today’s Sauvignon Blanc. The biggest difference today is that many Fumé Blanc wines are aged for a short period in oak while Sauvignon Blanc is typically fermented in stainless steel.
Since the word “fume” literally translates to “smoke”, many consider Fumé Blanc a smokier style wine. This is not the case. Fumé refers to the dense morning fog that covers the Loire Valley and is often considered as thick as smoke. A Fumé Blanc may exhibit more smoky characteristics because it is aged in toasted oak barrels but it is not a defining characteristic of the wine.
These days, Fumé Blanc looks as though it may be disappearing. Less than 20 producers in California even produce a Fumé Blanc, with most winemakers now opting for the more recognized Sauvignon Blanc. No matter what ultimately happens with Fumé Blanc, we do have to give the term (and Robert Mondavi) credit for helping to bring the French style of Sauvignon Blanc to California.
Fumé Blanc Wines to Seek Out:
Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Valley Fumé Blanc
Ferrari-Carano Sonoma County Fumé Blanc
Written by Linzi
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