Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Neela's in Napa

Could Napa possible need another restaurant to add to the hundreds found throughout the valley? It could—especially when it’s an Indian restaurant, and the newest hot spot to visit in downtown Napa. Created by Neela Paniz—Indian chef and cookbook author—this new spin Indian cuisine combines traditional Indian dishes prepared with a fresh, contemporary style.


Paniz incorporates fresh local produce with freshly ground spices and combines them to create decidedly lighter Indian dishes.


Paniz grew up in Bombay and Dehli, but learned to cook when she came to the United States where she cultivated her love of cooking into a successful career.


Neela’s previous restaurant, Bombay Café in Los Angeles had become a very successful operation by the time her cookbook was released in 1998. This cookbook, “The Bombay Café,” made her a well-known name in contemporary Indian cuisine.


It also brought her to the Napa Valley to attend the annual Worlds of Flavors conference at the Culinary Institute of California at Greystone. She said she was surprised that the Napa Valley didn’t have an Indian restaurant and loved the area, so she decided to move to the valley and open an Indian restaurant.


Upon our Saturday night visit a few weeks ago, we were greeted by the hostess, who was warm and friendly upon our 7:00 p.m. arrival. I reserved our table several days in advance, and by that time several time slots were already booked up, so make sure you make a reservation ahead of time, especially on a busier weekend.


Inside the lofty space, it was minimal and contemporary, with a particularly airy feel enhanced by high ceilings and broad-spanning windows. It was filled with contemporary, cool finishes not often associated with Indian décor. One large antique Indian Mural rests on one wall, offering a traditional feature to balance out the rest of the modern touches.


Our waiter was outgoing and knowledgeable about the menu, offering suggestions to compliment our tastes. Our party of four wanted to order several smaller dishes to share. We started with the Kathi Rolls, tandoori chicken tikka with mint chutney and marinated onions wrapped in egg-washed “rotis” ($10.00).


We enjoyed the Sindhi “fry” chicken with dal, rice and gobi (cauliflower) sabzi which was light but still savory ($21.00). The Tandoori Murghi, and delightful combination of cornish hen in a yogurt-saffron marinade was delicious, with a fresh accompaniment of mint chutney, marinated onions and naan ($19.00). We also sampled the California Tandoori Salad with chicken tikka, paneer, mushrooms and romaine. The cilantro cumin dressing beautifully brightened up the contemporary flavors of the dish ($12.00).


Since my visit the menu has changed to offer family-style menu options. Overall, I think this new restaurant is a wonderful and much needed addition to Napa Valley cuisine.


Neela’s is located on 975 Clinton St. in downtown Napa and is open Tuesday through Friday, 11 a. m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, and Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday from 5-9:30, and Friday and Saturday 5-10 p. m. Visit www.neelasnapa.com for more information, and call 226-9988 to make a reservation.


Written by Karen

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