Drinking Green

In the past, organic wines have had a spotty reputation for quality. For a winery to label themselves as organic, meant that they did not use sulfites in their wines. Sulfites are added to wine to protect the wine against oxygen, creating more stability in the wine and allowing it to age longer. Wines that do not include sulfites have a reputation for quickly losing some of their fruit character and not aging well.

With a strong consumer focus on all things green these days, many wineries are now touting sustainable or biodynamic farming methods in addition to organic. These methods have long been employed by growers and winemakers to enhance the quality and terroir of their wines. Now wine drinkers are starting to get on board and seek out wines that are made from sustainable, organic and biodynamic grapes.

So what exactly is the difference between each of these practices and how do they impact the flavor and quality of wine?

Sustainable winegrowing is the most ambiguous of the green designations but it is also the most widely promoted method in grape growing. The purpose is to reduce water and energy use, minimize pesticide use and utilize practices that protect the soil, air and water. There are no national certification programs for sustainable farming, but you can find some regional certifications on your wine labels.

Taking sustainable farming a step further, organic grapes must be certified organic and in California this is done by the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). For grapes to be considered organically grown, no conventional pesticides, synthetically compounded fertilizer or growth regulator may be used, with a focus on maintaining healthy soil.

The CCOF works with the US Department of Agriculture when it comes to labeling a wine as organic. A wine may only be labeled as organic if it does not contain sulfites, however if a winery uses sulfites but the wine is made from certified organic fruit, the label may read, “made with organic grapes”. Given the wide debate on sulfites mentioned before, many consumers are looking for wines that are made with organically certified grapes, but that may still contain sulfites.

Now biodynamic farming methods are also starting to go mainstream. Biodynamic farming goes much farther than sustainable or organic farming and looks at the farming system as a whole, including the soil, the people that tend to the vineyard, the plants, and the animals that are part of the ecosystem. Thus, it is a holistic approach to winegrowing. Many winemakers who practice biodynamic farming also believe the result is stronger and more vibrant wines. Biodynamic farms are certified by the Demeter Association.

No matter what method of green farming is being employed, most winemakers and growers will agree that green farming techniques improve the quality of the wine and provide a long lasting benefit to the environment. That’s something we can all raise a glass to!

Our Favorite Green Wines

Patianna 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Biodynamic)
Patti Fetzer, of the pioneering Fetzer family, produces wine from a 126-acre estate on the Russian River in Mendocino County. Her Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp, dry and balanced wine with great flavors of citrus, melon and pear. A great summer wine!

Frog’s Leap 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa (Organic)
Frog’s Leap has been farming organically since 1988. We recommend their 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon blended with a bit of Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Ridge 2005 Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley (Sustainable)
An elegant, full-bodied zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Carignane from Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. The grapes are not certified organic but Ridge employs sustainable farming methods.

Written by Linzi