Bring on the Whites

Spring brings with its arrival a bounty of newness. From the crisp, fresh smell of a spring morning to the weekend crowds gathering at the local farmer’s market to pick out the freshest produce, there is a certain brightness in the air. It also signals the release of a whole new slew of white wines. This spring brings with it the 2008 vintage and although it was a very difficult vintage for many growers in Northern California owing to late frosts, wildfires and other pesky factors, there are some amazing white wines coming from the 2008 vintage.

April frost kicked off what would result in a dramatic 2008 growing season in Northern California. Some growers lost entire crops to the frost. If that weren’t enough, the wildfires that raged through California in June and July took their toll on the grapes. Then a heat wave in late August left many rushing to pick their grapes as everything ripened at once. Despite these challenges, many are finding that the 2008 vintage is serving up some great wines and although we will have to wait a bit for the reds, some of the white wines are just now making an appearance.

One of the first 2008 white wines that I tasted this year was the 2008 Crocker & Starr Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Retailing for about $28 and with limited availability, this Sauvignon Blanc rarely disappoints. The style is a bit fleshy and floral with good crisp acidity and it has all the flavors we love – peach, melon, pear and nectarine. A great start to tasting our way through the 2008 vintage! www.crockerstarr.com

After spoiling ourselves with the Crocker & Starr, we decided to seek out some more widely available whites from the 2008 vintage and found ourselves trying the 2008 Cline Pinot Grigio. The fruit for this wine comes primarily from the Sonoma Coast and Carneros. This is a very approachable and refreshing white and a great buy at $12. www.clinecellars.com

Another great Pinot Gris, this time from the Napa side of Carneros, is the 2008 Etude Pinot Gris. Although the winery is located on the Napa side of Carneros, the grapes for this wine come from Etude’s estate vineyard in Sonoma Carneros and from a vineyard in Napa Carneros. The result is a bright, crisp wine with hints of citrus and peach flavors and good stone minerality. This is another one that is a bit hard to come by and a splurge at $24. www.etudewines.com

This is just a small sampling of what’s to come with the 2008 vintage. It seems that the vintage is off to a strong start and we’re looking forward to more to come. As we all taste our way through these wines, we’d love to hear your favorites from the 2008 vintage in Northern California.

Written by Linzi

A Springtime Sauv Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect wine to drink this time of year. Its crisp acidity and medium weight pair perfectly with a wide variety of foods, including all those yummy veggies that start popping up in the spring. And although the Napa Valley is known for its big Chardonnays and even bigger Cabernets, there are some great Sauvignon Blancs that come from the area. One of our favorites is the Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc from the Stags Leap District.

Cliff Lede Vineyards is located in the heart of the Stags Leap District, right off the Yountville Cross Road. It’s a beautiful winery built by Cliff Lede, a Canadian businessman who hired some top Napa Valley talent to make his wines, including viticulturist David Abreu, winemaker Michelle Edwards (formerly from Colgin Vineyards) and consultant Michel Rolland. All of the wines are good but the Sauvignon Blanc is my particular favorite…especially in the spring.

I paired the Sauvignon Blanc with my baked halibut and mango avocado salsa. The 2007 vintage has lush aromas of passion fruit and honeysuckle and crisp, vibrant flavors of citrus, melon and of course, more passion fruit. It’s a little fuller on the palate than other Sauvignon Blancs giving it a richer mouthfeel and long finish.

Find it online at http://www.cliffledevineyards.com/.

Written by Linzi

An Identity Crisis

In California, Sauvignon Blanc often suffers an identity problem when it’s called Fumé Blanc. Let’s start by clearing up any confusion about the varietal – Sauvignon Blanc and Fumé Blanc are both made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The difference comes from the style of winemaking and began in the 1970’s when famed vintner, Robert Mondavi, coined the term to describe his unique style of dry Sauvignon Blanc.

When Mondavi started using the term Fumé Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc was a fairly unfashionable grape in California. Most of the California Sauvignon Blanc’s on the market were overly sweet and lacked any of the texture or nuance that the Sauvignon Blanc’s from Bordeaux or the Loire Valley exhibited. Inspired by the wines of France, Mondavi came up with the term Fumé Blanc to differentiate his wine and impart some of the glamour of the famous Pouilly- Fumé grape.

Today there is some confusion about the difference between the two wines – mostly because these days there is not much of a difference. After the failure of California-style Sauvignon Blanc in the 1970’s, winemakers moved to a drier style wine, bringing much closer the style of Mondavi’s Fumé Blanc with today’s Sauvignon Blanc. The biggest difference today is that many Fumé Blanc wines are aged for a short period in oak while Sauvignon Blanc is typically fermented in stainless steel.

Since the word “fume” literally translates to “smoke”, many consider Fumé Blanc a smokier style wine. This is not the case. Fumé refers to the dense morning fog that covers the Loire Valley and is often considered as thick as smoke. A Fumé Blanc may exhibit more smoky characteristics because it is aged in toasted oak barrels but it is not a defining characteristic of the wine.

These days, Fumé Blanc looks as though it may be disappearing. Less than 20 producers in California even produce a Fumé Blanc, with most winemakers now opting for the more recognized Sauvignon Blanc. No matter what ultimately happens with Fumé Blanc, we do have to give the term (and Robert Mondavi) credit for helping to bring the French style of Sauvignon Blanc to California.

Fumé Blanc Wines to Seek Out:

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Fumé Blanc

Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Valley Fumé Blanc

Ferrari-Carano Sonoma County Fumé Blanc

Written by Linzi

Sticky Sweet Wines

The holidays are a great time for bringing out those dusty bottles of wine that are hiding in the back of your cellar. And if your wine collection is anything like mine, there are usually a few bottles of dessert wine that have been collecting dust over the last year just waiting for a special occasion with friends and family to bring them out of the cellar. What better excuse for popping the corks on these special bottles than the holidays?

Dessert wines come in many forms from the fortified wines of Portugal (Port and Madeira) and Spain (Sherry) to the Late Harvest/Botrytis wines of France and the United States to the Icewines of Germany and Canada. In Australia, you will often hear dessert wines referred to as “stickies”. And that is what some of them can be…sticky sweet. But in that indulgent, wonderful kind of way. Even if you think “sweet” is not for you, you are bound to find a dessert wine that pleases your palate.

Fortified wines are wines that have additional alcohol added during the winemaking process to stop the yeast fermentation process. The result is a higher alcohol wine with residual sugars that make the wine sweet. Various grapes are used to make fortified wines but one of the common grapes is Muscat.

Late Harvest wines are left on the vines until they shrivel into something more raisin-like. Botrytis (known more formally as Botrytis cinerea and less formally as Noble Rot) is a mold that builds on the grapes while they are on the vine and causes them to rot, thus the term Noble Rot since the end result is anything but rotten. Late Harvest wines are often made from Sauvignon Blanc or Semillon although many California producers will also use Muscat. The famous Sauterne wines of France (Chateau d’Yquem being the most notable) are made from botrytis infected Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes.

Icewine, or Eiswein as it is known in its German birthplace is another form of Late Harvest/Botrytis wine. Winemakers take late harvest a step farther by allowing the grapes to stay on the vines far past the end of Fall until they are actually frozen on the vine. The grapes are typically not harvested until late December or even January. Eiswein has a higher concentration of sugar because the water is literally “frozen” out of the grapes. Many Eiswein’s are made from the Riesling grape.

Pairing & Serving Dessert Wine

Sweet wines are a great complement to your dessert or on their own as a separate course either before or after dessert. The number one rule for dessert and wine pairing is that the wine should always be sweeter than the dessert. For the holiday favorites that are sure to make an appearance at your Thanksgiving table, we recommend a Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling with pumpkin pie and a Port or Late Harvest Zinfandel with pecan pie. And if anything chocolate makes its way to your table, we suggest Port. It’s one of those food and wine pairing marriages made in heaven. Always serve Ice Wines and Late Harvest Wines very cold. Port and most other fortified wines are best at room temperature.

Our Favorite Dessert Wines

Dolce – looking to treat yourself this holiday season? Get your hands on a bottle of Dolce. This “liquid gold” is made by Far Niente winery and is a Late Harvest blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. A 375ml bottle will set you back $85. But the holidays are for spoiling yourself, right?

Inniskillin Icewine – a Canadian treasure, Inniskillin makes a lovely Riesling Icewine. There are a lot of citrus flavors in this wine making it a great pairing for fruit based desserts and rich cheeses. $65 for a 375ml bottle.

Beringer Nightingale – the techniques used to make this wine were created by famed Beringer Winemaker Myron Nightingale and his wife Alice. The clusters of grapes are placed in single layers on a tray and gentle sprayed with carefully cultivated Botrytis cinerea spores. Sweet honey and peach aromas and flavors make this wine a great end to any meal. $40 for a 375ml bottle.

Charbay Ruby Port – the Charbay vodka makers also known how to make incredible wines and their French Oak aged Ruby Port is no exception. The port is made from Cabernet Sauvignon grown on Spring Mountain and fortified with their 8-year-old hand distilled Charbay Brandy. $38 for a 375ml bottle.

Hall Winery Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc – a 100% Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest wine with strong stone fruit aromas and loads of rich, honey flavor. Winemaker Steve Leveque makes this wine in the classic Sauterne style, harvesting the grapes in late November. $35 for a 375ml bottle.

Written by Linzi

Great Wine Values Under $12

Everyone is looking for a great value these days, especially when it comes to everyday indulgences. What makes a great value wine? For us, it means a well-priced wine that absolutely over delivers in quality. We look for a wine that you can enjoy at home but also a wine you want to share with friends and serve at your next dinner party. This week, we searched for a few of our favorite California wines under $12 that are truly outstanding wines for the price. Here’s our list. We’d also love to hear about your favorite California wines under $12. Share a comment with your favorites.

Pomelo 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

This wine is loaded with lots of citrusy goodness! Winemaker Randy Mason makes this second label and although it’s very different in style than his higher priced Mason Sauvignon Blanc, the same quality can be found in the bottle. With loads of grapefruit and pineapple, this is a lively and refreshing wine that is sure to please any palate. $10

Bonterra 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

The fruit for this wine comes from Lake County and Mendocino County. Fresh flavors of tropical fruit, lemon and even a hint of kiwi make for a well-rounded and easy drinking Sauvignon Blanc. We also love the fact that Bonterra sources its wines from organic vineyards. $12

TuTu 2006 Pinot Grigio

Winemaker Rob Lawson makes this 100% California Pinot Grigio in the Italian style. This crisp, fruity wine has great aromas of pear, apricot and nectarine with bright flavors of lemon, melons and fig. As they like to say, “Tu Tu is a serious wine that does not take itself too seriously.” $12

Clif Bar Family Winery 2007 The Climber White Wine

Winemaker Sarah Gott blends Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Chenin Blanc and a touch of Muscat to make this highly aromatic white wine blend. The result is a full-flavored, crisp white wine with just a touch of tropical fruit sweetness from the Muscat. A good portion of the fruit for this wine is sourced from organic or sustainably farmed vineyards. $12

Cellar No. 8 2005 Zinfandel

Cellar No. 8 is known for its big and enticing red wines. The majority of the grapes for this juicy Zinfandel come from Lodi and Lake County. With loads of blackberry, spice and other jammy fruits, this zin has good structure and a long finish. We agree this one definitely over delivers for the price! $10

Cline Cellars 2006 Zinfandel

Cline wines are always a good value for what’s in the bottle. With lots of dark berry fruit flavors and hints of spice, this yummy Zinfandel is no exception. Based in the Carneros region, Cline Cellars has a strong focus on sourcing from organic grapes and the Cline family has been a pioneer in sustainable farming practices. $12

Red Truck 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

A fun wine that’s perfect for a night in or to bring to any party. This lush, berry-loaded Cabernet is a power-house of blackberries, blueberries and a touch of vanilla. We also recommend Red Truck’s Santa Barbara County Chardonnay. $11

Written by Linzi

Springtime Sips

The sun is starting to linger in the evening sky and we're counting more warm days than cold. Thoughts of summer start to linger in our minds. With that come lighter meals made from the season’s freshest produce, lazy days snacking in the garden and crisp, bright white wines. Here are a few of our favorite springtime wines to enjoy those relaxed evenings on the back patio.

Honig Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

One of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs for the price, this one is bright and lively with aromas and flavors of grapefruit and tropical fruits. And we love it even more because Honig has been a pioneer in using sustainable farming methods. $14

Claiborne & Churchill Gewurztraminer

This small, family-owned winery in Edna Valley (outside of San Luis Obispo) makes Alsatian inspired wines including Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. We love the Dry Gewurtz for its intense aromas and flavors that pair well with almost any springtime meal. $18

Poet’s Leap Riesling

This Washington State gem comes from Long Shadows. It’s crafted by Armin Diel, one of Germany’s most acclaimed Riesling producers. Crisp and flavorful with a vibrant acidity, pair with a spicy Asian stir fry using in-season asparagus. $18

Written by Linzi